Taking the Plunge: Beginning a Victorian Wardrobe

Ever since I began sewing historical costumes I have been, to be blunt, uninterested in making any styles in vogue after 1817. Nothing seemed more elegant than the Neo-classical silhouette, nor more dashing than the Regency dandy. However, in the last couple of weeks that has changed, and all because of Elizabeth Gaskell's North & South. Becoming Margaret Hale has become the most exciting prospect! I can hardly wait to begin! But I can't, since I'm in the middle of a long-term project of an eighteenth century ensemble, which I decided to finish before I leap into the middle of the next century and the Margaret dress. This is to motivate myself to finish with the eighteenth century faster, and it is working so far. :)

The style I chose is Margaret's dress worn during Mr. Thornton's first proposal. I've always considered it to be elegantly simple, with it's solid color, it's basic bodice and very full skirt (I adore those layers and layers of petticoats). It makes a particularly elegant silhouette as Margaret stands before the window, regally considering her dislike of Mr. Thornton and her confusion over his unexpected avowal of love. *Sigh*

Finding a suitable pattern was surprisingly simple. I knew I would have to adapt it to some degree. (Yes! Bring on the brain challenge...) It is a pattern featured on the wondrous Nehelenia Patterns and the lovely Renaissance Fabrics websites and made by Laughing Moon Mercantile. It is a ball dress pattern, which means it only includes short sleeves, but the reason I decided on this one is because it includes the all-important bretelle.

What is a bretelle, you may ask? (Which is a question I would have had before I got the pattern in the mail last week.) It is the v-shaped fabric on the bodice that goes out slightly at the shoulders, rather like an extremely deep collar. :) This detail in the design was absolutely essential to me, because to my eye it gives this dress its distinction.

Another distinguishing aspect of this dress is the sleeves. But where to find them? This was also unexpectedly simple! (I am getting quite spoiled in putting this dress together by this time...) As I mentioned in my first post I dashed over to Hancock Fabrics to catch the last day of their sale and I decided to grab one of their Victorian patterns "just in case." Then, lo and behold, after I get home I remember that I will need long bell sleeves and billowy white sleeves to go underneath them... and this pattern contains both of those! Needless to say, I was quite pleased with my unconscious foresight. :)

Then I had to find fabric... First of all, what in the world is the fabric supposed to be? I found pictures and scrutinized the dress during every scene as I watched the movie (2, 3, 20 times...), comparing it with various fabrics sold online, and my conclusion is that it most resembles a sort of damask or jacquard brocade, presumably out of some natural fiber such as cotton or silk.

I found this very helpful picture on Pinterest, which also clearly shows that the fabric is truly the color it appears to be on screen. (I thought it may have had its saturation drained as they were coloring the movie in post-production in order to add to the somber Milton atmosphere.)

Sadly, the few fabrics I could find that were of a similar color as well as being a natural fiber were out of my price range. I settled on a polyester and rayon 50/50 blend that is a slightly brighter plum color from Denver Fabrics for a pleasing $5.50/yard.

Having received it in the mail, I must admit it's not ideal, but I am still pleased with it. It has more of a drape than I expected (which maybe I should have realized, knowing it was rayon) and an ever-so-slight wrinkled look, but I think it will be satisfactory if I can line the bodice and sleeves with something stiffer.

The next part of the process will be to find the trim for the sleeves and bretelle. First I shall be checking Joann Fabrics because it's local and Nehelenia Patterns and Renaissance Fabrics because they sell trim in natural fibers.

Of course, before I can cut out a single piece I must make all the correct underpinnings. The list includes a chemise, corset, corded petticoat, and one, maybe two, full petticoats. I alternate between excitement and dread at this prospect...

The Typical Adventure of Unwinding

People have different ways to unwind after being under stress of any sort, and my way to unwind usually involves being alone and a historical and/or fictional world (often with tea). Today involved a trip to the fabric store by myself to stock up on some historical patterns - especially since Hancock Fabrics was selling five Simplicity patterns for five dollars! Ending today! (So obviously I had to go.)

I felt much more relaxed when I came home, of course. And listening to the 'North and South' soundtrack certainly did nothing to hinder the relaxing process. :) (I found it years ago uploaded online and burnt it onto my own CD - it's not the official one, sadly, because as far as I know, there is no official soundtrack, to my continual chagrin.)

I went in to buy the 18th century pattern, since it includes some version of a pannier hoop. I'm not sure how historically exact it is, but for $1 I'm willing to give it a try. The Victorian pattern caught my eye now that I've decided to begin a Victorian wardrobe, so I thought I might as well grab it. Then of course who could pass up a pattern based on Downton Abbey? ;)

I am in the midst of my second bout of unwinding today, drinking my cup of black tea, eating my attempt at seed cake (as in what Bilbo Baggins eats) and reading my current favorite book, 'North and South' by the talented Mrs. Gaskell. After I've watched the end of the miniseries of that same name... (Yes, you all know what I mean: the Train Station. ;) )

My new artistic hobby is the quick and (in theory) easy mug customizing that I discovered via Pinterest. Someone had a brilliant design idea that I stole for myself, and you can see the result here.

The result is rather different and less perfect than what's on Pinterest, but it's good enough for me! I'm rather proud of the sad little illustration on the other side, since it was all my own invention (and since I'm keeping it to myself and not giving it to anyone...). It only costs a dollar if you have a Sharpie, and takes a mere 1/2 an hour in a 425 F oven (plus allowing it to cool).

If you'd like to make your own, simply follow these steps:

1. Find a cup and clean off the surface with rubbing alcohol.
2. Write and/or draw on the cup (be aware that most Sharpie brand colors change, usually lightening considerably; I've heard that Bic brand markers basically retain their color).
3. Place the mug in an unheated oven, turn it on to 425, and set the timer for 30 minutes (including the time it takes for the oven to heat up).
4. When the timer goes off, turn off the oven and leave the mug inside until it's cool enough to handle (it takes about 1 1/2 hours in my oven to cool).

It's just a fun way to customize a mug for yourself. I know my mind is swirling with ideas and quotes to put on my next one, but I can't decide which one to use!