The style I chose is Margaret's dress worn during Mr. Thornton's first proposal. I've always considered it to be elegantly simple, with it's solid color, it's basic bodice and very full skirt (I adore those layers and layers of petticoats). It makes a particularly elegant silhouette as Margaret stands before the window, regally considering her dislike of Mr. Thornton and her confusion over his unexpected avowal of love. *Sigh*
Finding a suitable pattern was surprisingly simple. I knew I would have to adapt it to some degree. (Yes! Bring on the brain challenge...) It is a pattern featured on the wondrous Nehelenia Patterns and the lovely Renaissance Fabrics websites and made by Laughing Moon Mercantile. It is a ball dress pattern, which means it only includes short sleeves, but the reason I decided on this one is because it includes the all-important bretelle.
What is a bretelle, you may ask? (Which is a question I would have had before I got the pattern in the mail last week.) It is the v-shaped fabric on the bodice that goes out slightly at the shoulders, rather like an extremely deep collar. :) This detail in the design was absolutely essential to me, because to my eye it gives this dress its distinction.
Another distinguishing aspect of this dress is the sleeves. But where to find them? This was also unexpectedly simple! (I am getting quite spoiled in putting this dress together by this time...) As I mentioned in my first post I dashed over to Hancock Fabrics to catch the last day of their sale and I decided to grab one of their Victorian patterns "just in case." Then, lo and behold, after I get home I remember that I will need long bell sleeves and billowy white sleeves to go underneath them... and this pattern contains both of those! Needless to say, I was quite pleased with my unconscious foresight. :)
Then I had to find fabric... First of all, what in the world is the fabric supposed to be? I found pictures and scrutinized the dress during every scene as I watched the movie (2, 3, 20 times...), comparing it with various fabrics sold online, and my conclusion is that it most resembles a sort of damask or jacquard brocade, presumably out of some natural fiber such as cotton or silk.
I found this very helpful picture on Pinterest, which also clearly shows that the fabric is truly the color it appears to be on screen. (I thought it may have had its saturation drained as they were coloring the movie in post-production in order to add to the somber Milton atmosphere.)
Sadly, the few fabrics I could find that were of a similar color as well as being a natural fiber were out of my price range. I settled on a polyester and rayon 50/50 blend that is a slightly brighter plum color from Denver Fabrics for a pleasing $5.50/yard.
Having received it in the mail, I must admit it's not ideal, but I am still pleased with it. It has more of a drape than I expected (which maybe I should have realized, knowing it was rayon) and an ever-so-slight wrinkled look, but I think it will be satisfactory if I can line the bodice and sleeves with something stiffer.
The next part of the process will be to find the trim for the sleeves and bretelle. First I shall be checking Joann Fabrics because it's local and Nehelenia Patterns and Renaissance Fabrics because they sell trim in natural fibers.
Of course, before I can cut out a single piece I must make all the correct underpinnings. The list includes a chemise, corset, corded petticoat, and one, maybe two, full petticoats. I alternate between excitement and dread at this prospect...
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